Granny Janny's Picture Stories: Sleepless In Siena

Why would you be sleepless in this city? Siena is one of Italy's best-preserved medieval towns, located in the heart of Tuscany, but if you are there the week before the famous Palio, you will find it difficult to sleep during this time of passion and rivalry! Celebrations are continuous and even if you are staying in a former convent, like we did, you would need earplugs to sleep! The air-conditioning in our room was not working for some reason that evening and so with the balcony doors flung wide open; we became a part of the joyful events that continued until dawn.

We had two days to participate in the feisty spirit of the Palio held in the Piazzo Del Campo. Siena has 17 contrade (neighborhoods) and each is represented by a mascot and unique colors worn proudly by young and old alike. Drumming, flag waving, colorful banners and good food with at least one bottle of wine are all part of the festivities preceding the day of the race.

It was the first place we went within the walls and it is one of the world's most unique piazzas. It is shaped like a shell with scalloped edges. When we arrived the red bricks arranged in fishbone style and divided into a sunburst pattern, were covered with dirt and packed down to create the track's surface for the famous race. Bleachers and balcony seats are set up right next to the track where the race will be run.

The tickets are very difficult to buy and they are expensive. Only ten of the seventeen neighborhoods compete and these are chosen by rotation. The race consists of three laps around the circuit and lasts just over a minute. Jockeys ride without saddles, flying like bats out of hell, going all out to win this prestigious race. Believe it or not, a horse can win without the jockey who often falls off and gets seriously hurt. The winning neighborhood becomes a scene of grand celebration!

We were looking for a certain place to eat lunch that we had visited almost 20 years ago. Our memory was not only about the delicious food, but also of a certain waiter, who was the most handsome man in Siena. Wishful thinking made us hope that maybe if he was not there, his son would be there as a handsome waiter, serving food and wonderful bottles of Chianti to American tourists known as the Funsome Fivesome. Lo and behold, we found the restaurant; same seating outside, and a handsome waiter that we quickly convinced ourselves was the son of our previous deliverer of fantastic memories. The race was won without horses that afternoon as we enjoyed the warmth of the Tuscan sun and the handsome son who like his father served good food, wine, and kisses for dessert. We tipped well, and were just a bit tipsy as we left the piazza to go in search of the cathedral and of course more gelato.

The Piazza Del Campo has often been referred to as the heart of Siena and the cathedral, the Duomo, as its soul. Siena is a city that sits on three hills, and the cathedral is atop the highest point. The white and green marble striped church can be seen for miles around. Siena's cathedral began in the 13th century, and is one of the finest examples of Italian Romanesque-Gothic architecture. While the rest of the group went inside (on two other trips I went inside to observe the beauty and marvel at the works of art) and marveled at the inlaid marble floors, stained-glass windows, Michelangelo statues, and Bernini sculptures, I choose to people watch from a bench outside the church and was rewarded with the sighting of a beautiful Golden Retriever walking with his master in the middle of a parade. Flags were waving and drummers drumming, while tears rolled down my face. I missed my dog Hena so much! It was then that I realized we were only halfway through our vacation, and had it been possible to fly home that day, I would have been on the next plane leaving Italy.

Our first choice was always to eat outside on the patio where we could watch the local people and their daily routines as we waited for our food. It often reminded me of a dinner theatre experience, not only in the presentation of our meal but also in the views from our table. During our last dinner in Siena, I watched a woman create beautiful floral arrangements arrangements from her open shop window right across the street from our table. I admire Italian elegance i all of its many forms, and on this particular trip I was especially drawn to the people who were in the middle of creating a work of art. In the past, I would be busy trying to find some famous work of art to photograph, but this trip was one in which I participated in the moment of creativity, even though I was a mere observer. Food for my soul was everywhere I looked and listened.